Fresh Oriental

Fresh Oriental perfumes are one of modern perfumery's great achievements: the ability to fuse the freshness of notes like mint or citrus with the depth and sensuality of the orient.

Versace's Eros is the most emblematic example: an opening of mint and green apple over a heart of tonka bean and a vanilla base creates a fascinating tension between cool and warm.

They are versatile fragrances for spring and summer, equally effective by day and by night.

Notes that define it

Openings turn to mint, citrus, green apple or other notes of immediate freshness, and the base is built from vanilla, tonka, amber or resins. In the heart, soft spices, lavender or aromatic notes usually appear, acting as a hinge between the two ends of the composition.

How to tell it apart

Against a fresh aromatic, there is a warm base here that holds the fragrance well after the freshness has gone. Against an oriental woody, the entry is far lighter. That tension between cool and warm is the family's reason for being and what makes it more versatile than a classic oriental.

How to wear it

These usually work well in spring and summer, and many wear them interchangeably day and night. They tend to project strongly at first and then settle into something closer to the skin. They are a good entry point into orientals for anyone coming from the fresh families.

What to consider before choosing one

This is a family that changes a great deal through the day, and it is worth testing over several hours before deciding: what starts fresh and sparkling ends up warm and sweet, and some find that contrast disconcerting. It also tends to project strongly at first, so many apply moderately if they will be in enclosed spaces. It usually works well as a first foray into orientals for anyone coming from the fresh families, because it offers the warmth of the base without giving up a recognisable entry.