Gourmand

The Gourmand family covers fragrances built around edible notes: vanilla, caramel, sugar, meringue, chocolate or almond. It consolidated as a category in the 1990s and is now one of perfumery's most popular branches, especially for anyone after an enveloping, comforting scent rather than elegance in the classical sense.

Unlike a floral or a woody, a pure gourmand doesn't evoke a landscape or a flower: it evokes a sweet texture. That makes it highly recognisable and also divisive. It projects close to the skin and is most perceptible in enclosed spaces and cool temperatures, where sugar and vanilla release slowly.

They perform best in autumn and winter and in casual or evening contexts. In hot weather the sweetness can feel heavy, so apply less.

Notes that define it

The core tends to be vanilla in any of its forms, joined by caramel, burnt sugar, meringue, marshmallow, almond, hazelnut, praline, cocoa or milk. Tonka bean appears frequently because it brings sweetness, an almond facet and a staying power that vanilla alone usually doesn't give.

How to tell it apart

A pure gourmand is recognisable because the sweetness is the theme and not an accompaniment. In a floral gourmand the flower usually stays in the lead and the sugar wraps around it; in a gourmand oriental there are resins, spices or patchouli that tend to darken the mix; in a fruity gourmand the fruit usually lends acidity at the start. A gourmand without a qualifier tends to lack those counterweights.

How to wear it

These tend to project close to the skin and gain body in the cold, so an amount that feels right in winter can turn heavy in summer. Many prefer to apply less than usual and avoid the warmest spots. They usually work better in casual and evening contexts, and clothing tends to hold the scent considerably longer than skin.

What to consider before choosing one

It helps to accept that this family gets noticed and isn't trying to be discreet. In enclosed spaces the sweetness builds up, so many apply considerably less than usual. The type of sweetness also deserves attention: a creamy vanilla, a toasted caramel and an airy meringue produce very different sensations even though all three are labelled gourmand. Anyone after something comforting and enveloping usually finds it here; anyone who wants elegance in the classical sense should probably look among the florals or chypres. Testing it in the cold, if it will be worn in winter, helps with the decision.